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By
Denise McCluggage
It is nostalgia resonating from
past to present building new memories for the future.
It is an elegant, pleasant and provocative way to get
up close and personal with the marvels of the continent,
both natural and historic.
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Aboard
the AOE
photo: courtesy of AOE
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The
vehicle for this experience is a quarter mile of vintage
private train, lovingly (and expensively) renovated. The
trains (there are now two full sets on separate journeys)
ply rail routes carefully chosen to make the most of astounding
scenery with schedules laid out to take advantage of daylight
hours and peak seasons. For instance on the "Antebellum
South" itinerary which I took in early April from
New Orleans to Washington D.C. fragile dogwood caught
the sun in the brown-limbed woods. Azaleas were still
bright. Spring hazed the hills with its fragile new green
and in the nation's capital the cherry blossoms were at
their delicate best. Talk about timing.
Another
AOE route makes an autumn leaf-peaking pilgrimage through
the maple brightness of New England, upstate New York
and Quebec. With AOE it's not the getting there that counts
it's the being there at the right time. (See "Itineraries"
below.)
The
AOE tours are train-based, but scarcely confined to the
train. The train is parked on sidings or at stations with
passengers disembarking to widen the tour via motorcoach,
van, horse-drawn carriage or shanks mare, whichever is
appropriate for closer encounters with national parks,
cities, mansions, public buildings, plantations, cemeteries
and/or shopping streets. Oh yes, boats are an option on
the itineraries including Glacier National Park.
On
my Antebellum South trip I found the provided guides informative
and entertaining. In New Orleans, Anne Lenhard, a retired
kindergarten teacher, explained in a voice as sonorous
as a church bell why she is called "Queen of the
Cemeteries."
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Savannah
Cemetery
photo: Denise McCluggage
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To
anyone mildly acquainted with southern writers it was
no surprise to find cemeteries twining throughout the
itinerary. Besides New Orleans's unique aboveground mausoleums
there was the Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah featured
in the book (and movie) "Midnight in the Garden of
Good and Evil." One can say with confidence that
death is alive and well in the Southland. (CONTINUE...)
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