Enjoy Great Food and Fun in Halifax, Nova Scotia
by
Neilia Sherman
"Halifax
is not a large city but there are those who love it who would choose to dwell
therein before all cities beneath the skies." -
Samuel Henry Prince, 1920  | Halifax
at dawn.
Photo: Destination Halifax/Nova Scotia Tourism and Culture/Wally
Hayes |
What
can I say about Halifax? After a recent five day visit to Nova
Scotia's capital in the heart of Atlantic Canada, there are a
couple of things that I know for sure.
1)
All of the rumours about the friendliness of Maritimers are true.
One waiter even went as far as asking his co-worker for directions
for us when he wasn't sure if his were good enough - and during
the dinner hour no less. 2) The city is small enough to be welcoming
and easy to navigate, yet large enough to provide attractions
worthy of a capital city, and 3) boy, do Haligonians love their
lobster.
As
soon as we checked into the historic Westin Nova Scotian, hunger pangs set in
and lunch became a priority. I sauntered with my husband and son to a nearby bistro.
The waitress was quite friendly and answered all of my questions about where the
locals liked to eat and shop. She was smiling and unhurried; I was already getting
a taste of the famous Maritime friendliness. We later took her advice and tried
out Salty's on the Waterfront and thoroughly enjoyed our fish and chips along
with the arresting harbour view.
Halifax
is a wonderful destination for solo female travelers since most
of its attractions, restaurants and shopping districts are located
in the compact downtown area, making it very easy to see a good
chunk of the city on foot. The waterfront is definitely a hotspot
as people are drawn to this area for its scenic view and many
water-based activities. Ships are able to use Halifax's harbour
all year because its well-protected waters never freeze.
 | Westin
Nova Scotian.
Photo: Neilia Sherman |
We
spent the first three days of our trip at the Westin Nova Scotian, an elegant
city landmark that was built in 1928 and has been restored to its original grandeur.
The impressive brick building is located downtown right next to the Via Rail station.
The last major remodeling was in 1996 and now that it is a Westin hotel, all of
the rooms have the superbly comfortable trademark heavenly beds and soft white
duvets.
The lobby is large and well lit with comfortable chairs and couches on which to rest inbetween touring expedients. The main restaurant was recently overhauled and now has an attractive Tuscany theme. We feasted on baby spinach salad and cranberry glazed chicken, which was nicely presented on uniquely styled stoneware. Hotel amenities include outdoor tennis courts, a fitness center, a sauna, and an indoor pool and hot tub.
My room was on the small side but nice appointments such as the duvets, upscale toiletries, plush bathrobes and windows that actually opened helped to compensate for this fact. All of the rooms have pretty views of either Cornwallis Park to the front of the hotel or the Halifax Harbour in the back.
For the business travelers and those with special needs the hotel offers Service Express, a one-touch dialing system that offers easy access to all hotel services. Another convenience of which we took full advantage was the complimentary shuttle that was available to take guests to wherever they want to go in the downtown district.
If you prefer a more intimate setting, the Halliburton House Inn, where I spent the last two nights of my stay, is a good choice. The inn consists of a trio of heritage townhouses that were originally built in 1809 as part of the home of Sir Brenton Halliburton, the first Chief Justice of Nova Scotia. There is a cozy country inn atmosphere inside, yet when you venture out, you're in the heart of the city near all the major attractions.
The nightly rate includes a good continental breakfast with a variety of breads, fruit, pastries, and beverages.
 |
Halliburton House Inn.
Photo: Neilia Sherman |
Our suite, perfect for a small family, consisted of a kitchenette, living room and bedroom. This heritage property consists of three townhouses side-by-side, offering 29 rooms and four suites, all of are furnished with period antiques. In the summer it is a treat to eat outside in the private garden courtyard. There is a small upscale dining room attached to the inn that specializes in local game and fresh seafood.
As the first British city in North America, Halifax has been a significant port since 1749 and has numerous historic and cultural attractions. One of the most interesting is Pier 21; Halifax's equivalent to Ellis Island, which is located right next to the Westin.
It was here that many immigrants caught their first glimpse of the land that would become their home. Now it has been transformed into an interactive interpretative center where films, exhibits and live speakers convey the story of these immigrants to Canada.
If you stay over the weekend, don't miss the lively Saturday morning farmer's market in the Brewery building, which is also home to the Alexander Keith's Brewery tour. We thought the market would be tiny, but it was filled with farmers, crafters, and artists proudly displaying their wares. This fabulous farmer's market was founded in 1750 and is the oldest in North America.
In the heart of the Halifax Harbourfront is the Maritime Museum, which offers a taste of Atlantic Canada's history. Here you can learn about how Halifax's evolution has been defined by two terrible tragedies - the sinking of the Titanic and the Halifax Explosion, both of which are detailed at the museum. Artifacts from the Titantic shipwreck, including one of the few remaining original deck chairs and part of the original staircase are on display.
The city has a strong connection to the Tiantic since many of the dead from the shipwreck are buried in various Halifax cemeteries, as this was one of the closest ports to the tragedy. Cemeteries also house the bodies of many of the over 2,000 people who died in the Halifax Disaster of 1917. On December 6, 1917, two war ships, fatally collided in Halifax Harbor, creating the "biggest man-made explosion before the nuclear age". The incident resulted in $28 million in damage - 326 acres of the north-end of Halifax's waterfront were destroyed by this incident.
I had the opportunity to get a real taste of Nova Scotian culture when I attended what is known as Kitchen Supper, a large lobster feast. Platters of red boiled lobsters were marched around the room while onlookers clapped and cheered. Two bites were more than enough for me, but it was fun watching my dinner companions enjoying a feast fit for royalty.
One of my very favourite places to stroll in Halifax was the Halifax Public Gardens, the first of its kind in Canada. The Public Gardens had its origins in 1836 when the Nova Scotia Horticultural Society set out to create a Victorian garden that would be "accessible to all classes" as a place where residents could get away from city life. The gardens are found on Spring Garden Road, a lively street filled with shops and eateries.
No trip to Halifax is complete without a visit to Peggy's Cove, where the most famous lighthouse in Canada stands in a fishing village that has attracted photographers from around the world.
Although it is only a 40-minute drive to Peggy's Cove, the feel is totally different from that of the city. The scenery is beautiful and rugged from the craggy gray rocks to the surrounding ocean and mountains.
 |
Peggy's Cove
Photo: Destination Halifax/Nova Scotia Tourism and Culture/Wally Hayes |
The tourists who flock here to climb the slippery rocks that surround the lighthouse, looking almost as if they are on a pilgrimage and aren't satisfied until they are perched on what looks like the end of the world. Somehow this lighthouse has become a symbol of Canadian strength and endurance.
At the end of my five day getaway, I found myself reluctant to leave. The slow pace in Halifax is perfect, and something not usually found in any big city. I can only hope that the relaxed feeling will remain with me when I return to hectic Toronto. If not, I will have an excuse to return and do all of the things that I didn't have a chance to do on this trip; there is much still to be learned about the original gateway to Canada.
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
www.halifaxinfo.com
www.halifaxtourism.ca
Accommodations:
Westin Nova Scotian
Call :1-877-9 WESTIN
Visit: www.westin.ns.ca
Halliburton House
Call: 902-420-0658
Visit: www.Halliburton.ns.ca
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