|
Explore French Culture in North America
words by Neilia
Sherman
photos by Brian Waterman
 | A
quaint street scene in Montréal. |
Why
go to all the way to Europe when you can visit North America's most European city,
Montréal? The cafes, the food, the shopping, the locals who parlez en
Francais, it is all here, but with just enough of a Canadian slant that you
know you are in the province of Quebec. As my very knowledgeable tour guide put
it, "we are French but we are also proud to be Canadian, we are both."
Montréal
is the second largest French speaking city in the world, after Paris, with over
68% of the population being native French speakers, so, obviously, this is not
your typical North American city. Culturally, the difference is immediately noticeable
- -Montréalers do not shy away from making eye contact with strangers --
and the customary way to greet friends is to kiss them on both cheeks, unlike
Canadians in other provinces, who tend to keep a distance of at least three feet
and shake hands upon meeting. Where
to start in describing this wonderful city? Five hours from my hometown of Toronto
by train, Montréal is as different from its conservative cousin as night
and day. This is truly the city that never sleeps. Walking around on a Tuesday
night, there were crowds of people everywhere I went. In cafes, in restaurants,
on the streets. It looked like a busy long weekend in Toronto. Mais, ca c'est
la difference. People in Montréal love to walk, to eat, to socialize and
to enjoy their city, especially in the summer and Montréal is considered
to be a safe city for a woman to travel alone. For instance, Montréal's
subway system is one of the safest in the world with only 6 violations per 100,000
passengers recorded annually.  | Hard
at work at Juliette et Chocolate. |
The
hardest decision you may face is to pick a place to eat or even to have a drink
-- the restaurants and cafes are just that plentiful. After enjoying comedienne
Kathy Griffin's hilarious act, at the fabulous "Just for Laughs" Comedy
Festival, I found myself with one of those inexplicable cravings for a late night
snack. Luckily a sign that said Juliette et Chocolat caught my eye. It turns out
that this chocolate-lovers dream had just been opened two weeks earlier by 22-year-old
Juliette Brun, a Parisian chef who was living out her dream by opening her own
cafe.
We feasted on fruit dipped in milk chocolate fondue and cafe au lait. Located on popular Rue St. Denis, this is place to go if you need a sweet pick-me-up.
Then it was back to Old Montréal where I was staying at Le Saint-Sulpice, a new ultra-modern boutique hotel which bills itself as an urban resort. The hotel has a wonderful ambience, with plenty of exposed stonework and dark wood in the welcoming lobby. Its location in the old walled town, one of the few preserved historic city centres in North America, makes it a choice place to stay. This charming historic setting is very popular with tourists who enjoy being within walking distance of numerous galleries, museums, shops and cafes in the area. Le Saint-Sulpice is just behind the famed Notre-Dame Basilica and only a block away from Old Port, a popular spot where people enjoy walking along the banks of the St. Lawrence River, viewing the wares of the artists on the nearby narrow cobblestoned streets and stopping for a cool drink at an outdoor cafe.
It is also near the Science Centre, the Convention Centre, Chinatown, the IMAX theartre and the Montréal Casino. Part of a recent trend to renovate older historic buildings and turn them into boutique hotels, Le Saint-Sulpice provides a different type of experience from larger traditional accommodations.
 |
A business-oriented desk and a fireplace are just two of the great amenities at Le Saint-Sulpice. |
The first thing I noticed was how personal the service was. The staff came to know me very quickly -- from the doorman who wished me a good day to the Front Desk staff who were able to tell callers that I had just stepped out, because they noticed when I did.
Upon entering the hotel, I noticed its modern stylish look with its simple elegant furnishings and the warm tones of the walls and the carpets. The luxurious yet arty flare continues into the spacious suites, which are decorated in natural calming tones and are adorned with bonus features such as fireplaces and comfortable leather couches.
I was fascinated just watching the water run into my beautiful clear glass sink in the spacious bathroom. The deep bathtub came equipped with a state-of-the-art handheld shower. The standard amenities include plush bathrobes and upscale toiletries. I enjoyed having the extra space and found it to be a nice change from standard hotel rooms -- it was more like staying in a nice condo than a hotel room. There was a kitchenette, complete with dishes, a coffee maker, a microwave, a stove-top, a refrigerator and a sink, as well as a living area with a couch and comfortable chairs. The large desk was well-suited to business travellers as there were two phone lines and high speed Internet access. There was even a Murphy bed almost invisbly tucked into the wall in order to accomodate extra guests if necessary.
 |
The lobby of Le Saint-Sulpice.
photo courtesy of Le Saint-Sulpice |
For a woman travelling alone, it is nice to know that the 24-hour concierge is available for such tasks as purchasing grocery orders and delivering them directly to the room. Since all of the suites are equipped for cooking, there is the option of staying in for a quiet evening and preparing a meal in your own suite. If you're travelling on business or just need some down time, this is a good alternative to have. The suites also offer a nice setting for entertaining guests or business associates, as the bedroom is completely separate from the rest of the living space.
To my surprise, the staff had preprinted business cards for me with my name and the address and phone number of the hotel, another unique standard feature of the Le Saint-Sulpice. How convenient! Instead of scrambling for paper and pen and trying to write down a number that you probably don't remember, you just hand out one of these personalized business cards and feel very sophisticated.
The bedroom was very comfortable with down pillows and a duvet comforter, standard features in all rooms. The windows in my suite looked out at the hotel's landscaped interior courtyard, the perfect place to enjoy breakfast or lunch under one of on a sunny day. The hotel has a fine-dining restaurant simply known as S that specializes in fresh seafood and grilled steaks. It's open for three meals daily, as well as 24-hour room service, so there are choices for both the cocooner and the social butterfly.
 |
A hotel room bathroom at Le Saint-Sulpice.
photo courtesy of Le Saint-Sulpice |
Other perks for business travellers include: a fully-equipped boardroom, cell phone rentals, computer rentals, secretarial and translation services and in-room connections for fax and modems. For those in need of relaxation and/or exercise the Essence Fitness Centre has massage therapy, standard fitness equipment and a sauna.
Food is very important to Montréalers; on average they spend more of their income on food and eat out more than most Canadians. Montréal is famous for foods such as bagels, poutine and smoked meat and for some fans of these foods, a trip to Montréal begins with a scurrying around to acquire a stash of one's favourites that can only be found here. My curiosity got the best of me and I had to taste a "Montréal" bagel, so I tracked down the St. Viateur Bagel Shop, where they have what are arguably the best bagels in Montréal and I have to admit -- they were quite good. I'm not a major bagel lover and and I ate three in the next 12 hours. The difference from Toronto or New York bagels is that Montréal's are made with eggs and baked in wood-burning oven. Mmm, they are sweet and crispy. And St.Viateur's is open 24 hours a day for the bagel emergencies that apparently plague Montréal natives.
Most Montréalers purchase their food at markets rather than grocery stores, especially things like breads, fresh produce and meats. Not surprisingly, having lunch is a major undertaking in Montréal and is apt to take several hours between the bread and the wine and the appetizer, main course, and dessert. One popular place to lunch that I highly recommend is the Boris Bistro on McGill. This bistro has a large outdoor patio and is so popular that a table outside has to be booked in advance on nice summer days. The food is excellent and the atmosphere is sensational. I had a roasted duck sandwich on walnut bread that still makes my mouth water.
Of major appeal to female visitors is the fact that Montréal has the hightest concentration of stores in Canada and the largest collection of fashion boutiques; in fact nearly 1,200 stores line the fashion district along Sainte-Catherine Street between Guy and Saint-Denis streets. The cold winters do not keep Montréalers at home-that's when they take full advantage of the Underground city. Montréal has 18 1/2 miles of underground pedestrian walkways linking 10 subway stations, 60 buildings, 200 restaurants, 1700 boutiques and 30 movie theatres, thus it's possible to visit in the winter and have no need to put on a coat in order to go on a shopping expeditition.
 |
The Chinese Garden at Montréal Botancial Gardens. |
If you have a couple of days to spend here, two must-sees are the Biodome and the Montréal Botancial Gardens. Biodome is an amazing attraction that inhabits the building where the 1976 Olympics took place. It recreates four separate ecosystems, a tropical forest, a mountain forest, a marine ecosystem and a polar echosystem, all complete with indigineous plant and wildlife. My favourite part was watching the penguins and puffins toddle about and dive into the icy waters.
The Botanical Gardens would take at least a day to explore in their entirety but in the short time available to me, I was very taken with the Chinese Garden which has a lake and a temple on-site.
Of added appeal to American visitors is the closeness of Montréal to the U.S. border (Vermont and New York are just an hour drive away). And of course, the prices because of the lower Canadian are quite enticing. You might just want to postpone your costly European getaway and head to Montréal instead! (...BACK)
Top skyline photo: © www.old.montreal.qc.ca, le photographe masqué | 