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Small Town Getaway in Coastal Ontario
by Rachel
L. Miller
 | | Katherine
Leonard answers questions about Southampton's history during one of her walking
tours. |
"Hello,
lady with the weird stick!" a voice echoes on the quiet residential street,
coming from the window of a nearby house. Katherine
Leonard smiles, emitting the tiniest of laughs, her walking stick held fast in
her right hand, the feather attached to the top bending in the cool breeze. "Hello!"
she calls back to her young neighbor, her blue eyes sparkling like the nearby
waters of Lake Huron. When
I first saw her from a distance, with dark ringlets of hair framing her face,
her navy dress billowing around her ankles with each step and her walking stick
at her side, I was intrigued. Now here must be a good story, I thought
as we drove slowly past her. Then I saw her feet. They
were bare, her toes painted with dark blue polish, sliding along the cement as
if it were covered with the softest, cleanest pink cashmere. "Ummm,
guys, she's not wearing shoes," I said to our carload. The other two writers,
being from Toronto and Detroit, swiveled their heads to get a closer look. The
mere thought of venturing out of my metro-Detroit home sans footwear gave me the
chills. You never knew what you'd encounter on a city street, but chances are
it would be dirty, sharp, dangerous or downright gross. But, then again, as I
was reminded countless times during my three-day stay in Southampton, Ontario,
"this is small-town, old-fashioned Ontario…the way it used to be." Yes,
this is Southampton, a coastal town of 3,000 that balloons to 10,000 in the summer
months (late June-early September). It's the kind of town where waves and smiles
between residents are common, conversation about the preservation of historic
buildings is prevalent and it's a place so safe that residents don't feel the
need to lock their doors. And,
yes, it's also a place where locals know Katherine Leonard as the "lady with
the weird stick," as the Toronto-area transplant who fell in love with this
small town, gobbled up its history and now hosts walking tours for tourists.
She
weaves stories brilliantly, her soft, lilted voice perfectly suited for describing
shipwrecks (with shoals off the coat, hidden rocks and strong winds, the port
of Southampton has had more than its share) and other century-old tales.
As our hour-long tour winds down on High Street, in view of the enormous Canadian flag that marks the end of the street and beginning of beach, someone in our group ventures the question I've been dying to ask.
"So, Katherine, why aren't you wearing shoes?"
She offers a throaty chuckle and looks down at her feet, now sandy from our walk on the beach. "I didn't have any shoes that matched."
And the other question we're thinking comes next: "And what's the story about the stick?"
"Well, since we meet at the flag for each tour, I was wondering how people would know who I was," she replies. "And so I had my aunt's boyfriend get me two nice sticks from the beach. I tied on a couple of the keychains from the museum and my Indian friend got me the feather."
"Ohhh," we reply in unison.
My curiosity satisfied, I ask how visitors to Southampton can book tours through her.
"Meet at the flag on Saturday at 10:30 a.m.," she answers simply. "In July and August, I do tours on Tuesday and Thursday too. It costs five dollars."
"There's no number for them to call to make reservations?" I ask, amazed.
"No. Just meet at the flag."
And, trust me, you'll know who Katherine Leonard is when you see her.
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| Designed to be one of the tallest on the Great Lakes, the flag pole at the end of High Street in Southampton is 135 feet tall, carrying a flag that measures 25 feet by 50 feet. |
The small-town feel and friendliness of Southampton, coupled with three kilometers of sandy public beach, is what brings visitors up from busy cities like Toronto, Detroit and Chicago. Add in the great exchange rate for the American dollar, and you've got an inexpensive getaway for families and couples in nearby states like Michigan and New York.
Best yet are the great package deals offered by two Southampton bed and breakfast inns - Chantry Breezes (located on High Street) and Solomon Knechtel House (a few blocks away on Victoria Street). No matter your interests, there's a package to suit you that includes activities like golfing, beachcombing, cycling, dogsledding, snowshoeing, art classes and watching the world's second best sunsets (as rated by National Geographic Magazine).
I sampled a number of activities that the B&Bs offer -- from a massage to hiking in a nearby Provincial Park. There's a great number of things to do if you're an outdoorsy type. Kayaking, hiking and swimming are just a few.
As far as the B&Bs are considered, the accommodations at both are stellar, with crisply decorated rooms and large bathrooms. In fact, the room in which I stayed at Chantry Breezes (the Amy-Weyland room) has one of the most spacious bathrooms I've ever seen at a B&B, complete with an extra-wide sink (perfect place to temporarily place a beauty product bottle or contact lens case).
 The bed was so comfortable and the room so quiet, that I actually slept 10 hours straight. I woke up to participate in owner Jenny Amy's 8 a.m. gentle yoga class and was then treated to a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit, rhubarb muffins and fried eggs topped with feta cheese served in the gorgeous mint-green Queen Anne Sunroom.
Owners Jenny and Don Amy are gracious, friendly and are extremely knowledgeable about the area and its many attractions. Jenny grew up vacationing in Southampton and shared many stories about her childhood summers spent in a cottage on the coast, including extensive treasure hunts along the town beach.
"There's just only so much time kids can spend playing board games," she remembered, laughing. "So our parents would give us a list of things to collect along the beach -- like a colorful rock and a feather -- and we'd be out there for hours."
 Her love of the area kept bringing her back -- and in 1999, she and her husband discovered a sprawling 1907 Queen Anne house was for sale, one that she'd often admired as a child. They purchased it and lovingly converted it into a charming B&B. And the rest, as they so often say, is history.
A major historic focal point in Southampton is Chantry Island with its famous lighthouse, a beacon to the sailors attempting to navigate the rock-filled waters of Lake Huron. Construction on the Chantry Island Lighthouse was started in 1855 and the light was turned on in 1859. In 1954 the service was discontinued when an automatic light was installed. Four years later, the island was declared a bird sanctuary and thousands of birds have made the island their home.
 Volunteers have worked tirelessly to restore and preserve the lighthouse and adjacent lighthouse keeper's quarters so that it can continue to be enjoyed by the public. Tours are offered, but must be prebooked (call 1.888.757.2215).
If you're famished after taking a tour of Chantry Island, fear not. There are a number of dining options in Southampton, ranging from tasty pub fare to fine multi-course dining.
The latter: Grosvenor's, Southampton's most well-known restaurant, is housed in an old railway station and serves
Canadian cuisine in an atmosphere of understated luxury. The food, well, it's downright magnificent. From local beef to local fish to local game to produce grown in the restaurant's own garden -- if you want a fresh taste of Southampton, Grosvenor's is a must. Most of the B&B packages include a dinner at this charming, impressive eatery.
The former: head to Duffy's Restaurant on High Street, where you'd be crazy not to sample fresh whitefish or good 'ole fried fish and chips. Also, make sure to order a pint of Neustadt (brewed in nearby Neustadt) -- it complements any dish. Don't skip dessert -- you'll be sorry if you do.
If you're lucky, you'll be serenaded by Ernie Duff, restaurant owner and damn good singer, if I do say so myself. As soon as Duff breaks out the karaoke machine, you know you're in for a treat.
The two Americans in the restaurant (myself included) were treated to a rousing rendition of "New York, New York," with the improvised line of, "These small town blues are fading away... good 'ole Southampton!"
And as we were preparing to leave, a group of local women at a nearby table suddenly burst out into song, singing, "You Are My Sunshine," while the other patrons smiled and tapped their feet to the rhythm. It's that kind of small-town charm that endears visitors so strongly to Southampton.
It's cold, damp and windy in MacGregor Point Provincial Park and I'm on my hands and knees on the soggy forest floor, clutching a dental mouth mirror in my shivering hand.
"Welcome to the underworld, ladies," whispers Rob Taylor, our guide for this observational hike (and owner of the lovely Solomon Knechtel House B&B). "Can you guess what I mean by underworld?"
I let out a faint chuckle and respond, "The Mafia?"
He gives me a kind smile. "No, I want you to use these," he holds up his plastic-handled dental mouth mirror, "to explore the underworld of the forest."
He crawls over to a bush and places his mirror under a leaf.
"Look," he breathes, motioning for us to come closer.
We crowd around him to see a sight we've never taken the time to appreciate before: the underside of a leaf. It's simply breathtaking. Droplets of water cling to the stem, to the edges of the leaf -- it's beautiful.
We then spread out, using our mirrors to see things usually hidden from our vision -- the area underneath a fallen log, inside a shallow crevasse in a tree trunk, an intricate spiderweb dotted with dew.
This is different than any other guided hike then I've been on -- the reason is twofold: Rob Taylor loves nature and he wants us to love it too. He brings us down to a quiet, relaxed level where we can appreciate everything that's around us.
We then move on to a dock at Water Snake Pond, where we sit upon the slippery wood and gaze out over the fog-covered water.
"Now close your eyes and listen to Mother Nature's symphony," he says. "It's beautiful, and best of all, it's completely free."
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| Rob Taylor chats with members of our hiking group after our "symphony" performance. |
I close my eyes and become aware of high-pitched chirps, garbled squawks and the sound of wind moving through the trees.
And then a loud chorus tempts me to open my eyes -- Canada geese, soaring overhead, are like the brass section of the symphony, powerful and energizing.
It is strange that this is the first time I've actually stopped while hiking to enjoy all the little things that makes nature so amazing (and yes, powerful).
And the gourmet lunch Rob packed is delicious. We devour fresh breads, cheeses, veggies and fruits (especially the chocolate-dipped strawberries) before starting the walk back to the car.
The hike, which Rob calls an "Earthwalk," is just one of the options available in the Southampton B&B packages.
I sigh as we drive back to the B&B -- it's been a great day so far and I can't imagine how it could get any better.
Then I remember my next activity: a massage.
I smile at my good fortune and make a mental note to return to Southampton next year.
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