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London, England Travel Review

Visit London for a Little Self-Indulgence and Relaxation

by Wendy O'Dea

Women have needs. Basic needs. Especially when traveling. I need quality meals, a good glass of wine and access to fine chocolates. I need, whenever possible, a fancy hotel with a really big bed (extra pillows a plus) and a down comforter, a deep tub and a staff eager to please me.

OK, I don't need these things…I want these things. They are the ultimate escape from my middle class existence. And I recently got these things on a self-indulgent visit to London, a city perfectly well equipped to meet both my wants and my needs (well, with the exception of maybe a few unmentionable categories).

I was passing through London on my way to the island of Jersey in the English Channel. Rather than run through Heathrow for a connecting flight, I planned a four day layover of pure relaxation: sleeping in, walking in the park, dining, dining and a little more walking in the park to work off all the dining. Here's a good template if you're looking to do the same…

Day One

London, England Halkin Hotel
The Halkin Hotel in London

Arrive Heathrow late afternoon, take the express train into the city and grab a big black cab to the quiet but fabulous Halkin hotel in the Belgravia section of London, midway between Knighstbridge and Mayfair. The Georgian-style façade disguises a much more modern hotel with polished marble floors and arched windows in the lobby. Each floor is designed to mimic the colors of the elements: water, air, fire, earth and sky and the rooms themselves are tastefully and simply decorated. I recommend spending a lot of time lounging in the generously sized tub and soaking up the aromas of the Como Shambhala amenities. Remember - the goal is to relax, not cram as much in as possible. Wouldn't want to rush things.

After dragging yourself out of the tub, take the tube to Knightsbridge (well, get dressed first!) and wander through this very lively section of London featuring an active nightlife and trendy restaurants. If hungry, stop off at Carluccio's Italian caffe for some pasta and pastries. Pop into a local pub for a pint then head back to the hotel and crawl into the crisp while linens for a night of jet-lagged slumber.

Day Two
Indulge in a decadent breakfast at the hotel dining room then head out for a day of soaking up London on foot. It is essential you wander with no purpose, strolling in and out of shops and museums that catch your fancy. If day two is Sunday, as it was for me, head to Speakers Corner in Hyde Park to witness free speech at it's finest. Every Sunday, primarily during the early part of the day, speakers stand atop ladders and rattle off to anyone who will listen (and there are plenty who are). Thereafter, take the tube to Camdentown, packed with tattooed rebels and those who love them. The area is dotted with outdoor markets, akin to an American flea market, from studded collars to antique furniture. Grab lunch at one of the outdoor food vendors along the way - Turkish doner kabobs, pizza, Indian curry - it's all here.

Return to The Halkin, turn on the music piped into the bathroom and shake off the London chill with a long, hot shower. Relax on the big comfy bed (a nap perhaps?) then get fancied up and pop downstairs to Nahm, the hotel's restaurant and the only Thai restaurant in the world with a Michelin star. Nahm is run by head chef David Thompson (who, oddly enough, happens to be Australian) whom has created a tasty menu of up to seven courses (£47 per person) peppered with a creative combination of spices and flavors fit for Thai royalty. Once satiated, stumble back to the room for a food-induced night of rest.

Day Three

London, England Dorchester Hotel
The Dorchester Hotel in London

It's easy to get too comfortable in one place so shake it up a bit and change hotels, like I did. Head up Park Lane to the row of five star hotels overlooking Hyde Park and take your pick from The Metropolitan, The Four Seasons, The Hilton and The Dorchester. I chose the latter, a traditional British hotel steeped in history (Prince Phillip's stag party was held here). It's just undergone a major renovation which was clearly evident when I entered my room to find a huge four poster bed draped in heavy fabric at each corner and a monstrous sized plasma screen TV at the foot of it, housed in an antique looking painted cabinet. Decorated like an English country house, the yellow flowered fabrics and polished wood accoutrements made me feel like I'd just popped over from my real home at Buckingham Palace. I could have spent the next two days in the white marble bathroom, especially after discovering that they have the deepest tubs in all of London(I have a thing for nice bathrooms!)

Alas, despite the temptation, I did not. Rather, I went out for a long walk around Mayfair (the area along Park Lane and across from Hyde Park) and I suggest the same. Get lost if need be and discover the hidden alleys and streets of Victorian London, Georgian London, modern London. Heading toward Covent Garden, make your way past the upscale shops to Conduit Street with a resolve to find the Parlour at Sketch. Sketch, a trendy restaurant/nightclub/bar also has a front room (the Parlour) with a pastry case like a crystal ball - mesmerizing all who gaze into it. The pastries are so beautiful that to eat them is to destroy a masterpiece forever.,. but do it anyway. They've recently started to serve lunch here as well, with healthy and reasonably priced salads and sandwiches.

Being London, it's a good idea to visit one of London's world-class museums and I chose the National Portrait Gallery, located just next to Trafalgar Square. Resolve, again, to not have an agenda in the museum, abiding by the plan to simply "wander and discover." After a few hours, go directly back to The Dorchester and straight to the spa for an Eve Lom facial (their signature treatment).

Shower, get dressed then make your way to London's west end for a great dinner and a night of theater. Upon arriving at Osia, an Australian restaurant (whose chef, happens to be Belgian), I was welcomed by a handsome young waiter who assumed I would be a party of two. "Just one," I said. He quickly replied, "If I knew you were coming alone, I would have taken the night off!" He then proceeded to serve me and keep me company while I sipped a glass of Pinot Noir and dined on an excellent rack of lamb. The menu includes a pre-theater set menu as well as a wide selection of options including native Australian ingredients, such as dried bush tomato, lemon myrtle and muntries (small berries with a sweet apple flavor). Top off your meal here with a dessert of warm chocolate soup (think of the filling of a chocolate lava cake) - keeping in mind this trip is about indulgence. Then cap off the evening with a night at the theater and a restful sleep in the aforementioned big comfy bed.

Day Four

London England Dorchester Grill
The Dorchester Grill Room

Kick off your final full day in London brilliantly with the best breakfast I've probably ever consumed. The Grill at the Dorchester serves the creamiest, fluffiest most delicious eggs served with a full English breakfast or simply scrambled, if you prefer. Rather than rush out of this gorgeous hotel, I recommend you spend your last morning lounging. Crawl back in bed and check your email on the plasma TV by way of cordless keyboard. Take a shower, a bath or just sit on the toilet and talk on the phone (there's one right next to it) just because you can. Stare mindlessly out the window over Hyde Park.

Spend the afternoon exploring the boutique-lined streets of hip Chelsea. Grab lunch at Eight Over Eight, a fusion of Asian cuisines (the chef, a British chap) then walk off the calories wandering along High Street in Kensington. I ventured into Kensington Palace, intrigued like most people, by the ghost of Princess Diana, this being her residence at the time of her death. From Kensington, cut back to The Dorchester via the paved paths of Hyde Park escaping the bustling city that surrounds it.

On your last evening in London I suggest just staying put. I couldn't tear myself away from The Dorchester that final night and chose to instead partake in the traditional high tea served in the lobby amidst cushy settees and upholstered armchairs. Finger sandwiches, pastries, even a small dinner entrée (such as Welsh rarebit) are included.

I hesitatingly left The Dorchester the next morning, now with an understanding why celebrities, politicians and other aristocracy chose to call this hotel home for many decades. If I had the means I might just do so myself.

Regardless of where you choose to stay and how you choose to spend your time, the objective is simply to slow down and enjoy the riches of life in London. In the end, I had experienced British culture, met an array of international chefs, and indulged in quality meals, good wine and sweets. I stayed in fancy hotels with big beds, fabulous bathrooms and fantastic staff. What more could anyone ask for?

IF YOU GO

The Halkin Hotel
Halkin Street, Belgravia; phone 020 7333 1000; www.halkin.como.bz

The Dorchester
Park Lane, Mayfair; phone 020 7629 8888; www.dorchesterhotel.com

Carluccio's Caffe
236 Fulham Road; phone 020 7376 5960; fulham@carluccios.com

Nahm
At The Halkin Hotel, Halkin St.; Lunch Mon-Fri 12-2:30; Dinner Mon-Sat 7-11 and Sun 7-10; phone 020 7333 1234

Parlour at Sketch
9 Conduit Street; phone 0870 777 4488; www.sketch.uk.com

Eight Over Eight
392 Kings Road, Chelsea; phone 0207 349 9934; www.eightovereight.nu