by Susan Van Allen

Sounds of clinking silverware and lunchtime conversations drifted into the alley through dark green shutters of second story windows. Up ahead a pair of sculpted cupids floated above a pastry shop. I slowed down to inhale the sweet smell of baking.

A church bell rang as a woman approached me, "Scusi, signora, dove -" I stopped her before she could ask directions. In my shoddy Italian I explained with a smile that I was lost too. She smiled back and I went on my way, meandering through the shadowy paths of the historic center of Genoa.

Most of the time getting lost in Italy brings on grimaces rather than smiles - as in my many memories of "Whose fault is it we took the wrong exit off the autostrada?". But getting lost in the maze of narrow medieval streets in Genoa's Centro Storico could not have been more idyllic.

The area, squeezed between the port and the city's terraced hillside, is said to be the largest historical center in Europe. Last April, I tucked away my impossible-to-follow map and discovered that surrendering to Genoa, letting her reveal herself on her own terms, was the way to find the essence of this city of grand and humble treasures.

Upon arrival, my group's guide, Micaela (a flaming red-haired, 20-something, part-time pop music singer), was enthusiastic about introducing us to Genoa's high profile sights - the port and palaces, which surround the historic area. Genoa has been named European Cultural Capital of 2004, and everywhere banners announced special museum exhibits and performance events. Locals like Micaela were pumped to show off Genoa, La Superba (The Haughty) - the nickname it took on during its 13th to 18th century maritime heyday.

I found myself most attracted by Genoa the Humble. Micaela started us off at the Porto Antico, redeveloped in 1992, when Genoa celebrated the 500th anniversary of the voyage of its most famous native, Christopher Columbus. I drifted from the modern Lorenzo Piano designed structures to the folksy food stalls. There, under a cluster of sunflower-colored tents, cooks sold regional specialties and I spotted what was to become my favorite Genovese snack: thin lightly salted focaccia bread served hot and stuffed with melted cheese.

A short drive away from the Porto Antico, we found a more tranquil experience of Genoa's 19-mile coastline in Boccadasse, an ancient fishing village near the city's border. (CONTINUE...)