Winds whip across Lake Michigan with wild abandon, bending branches to and fro, casting fall’s last leaves earthward in defiance. On the water, waves crest with spraying white peaks, crashing into the sand before they sweep back into Grand Traverse Bay to blend with slate-colored skies. Rain begins to tap the windshield of our car; not gently, sharply – like each drop has been specifically directed to fall with vigor as I crane my neck to glimpse the stunning scene outside.
We’re driving along the stretch of M-72, one side offering panoramic views of the choppy bay and the other spotted with a muddle of newly constructed hotels and mom and pop inns.
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Traverse City in the Fall |
From our base camp of Grand Traverse Resort and Spa, the vein leads us directly into the downtown bustle of Traverse City, Michigan. Constructed only a few meager yards from sandy beaches, the tiny epicenter is crowded with quaint but eccentric boutiques, cafes, restaurants and shops, making it an ideal weekend getaway for small town folks that crave the edgy feel or big city slickers in need of a refreshing escape.
Because the rows of street-lining buildings shield us from the northern gusts, we decide to chance late October weather. Visions of cherry anything and everything lure us into our first store, The Cherry Stop, where we’re overwhelmed with an incredible array of regional goods boasting the finest ingredients from the “Cherry Capital of the World” – Traverse City. Cherry caramels, chocolate-covered dried red tarts and nearby Leelanau Peninsula cherry wines tempt taste buds relentlessly at the “one stop cherry shop,” but it’s the bath and body treats that I scoop up as must-have souvenirs – Great Lakes natural cherry soaps and Ravenwood cherry body creams.
We walk Front Street, ducking out of the blustery winds to peruse occasional shops and admire the funky, independent vibe of the northern town. Stores like beauty shop Venus, Blue in the Face, Peppercorn kitchen goods, and galleries like Watermelon Sugar Gallery and Art & Soul combine effortlessly with hot spot restaurants such as Dish Cafe (which offers delicious vegetarian eats), North Peak Brewing Company (try the Northern Light golden ale), and Grand Traverse Pie Co. (featuring legendary selections like Peninsula Apple Crumb and Old Mission Cherry.)
On the way back toward Grand Traverse Resort, hunger pangs find us stopping at the always-recommended Don’s Drive-In, where 1950's style waitresses serve up classic burgers, chili dogs and straw-clogging fruity shakes. The friendly atmosphere and speedy service prove Don’s valid reputation as a homerun and like so many before us, we vow to stop in for a bite on our next trip too.
Stuffed, satisfied and weary from a day in town, we retreat to the fore-mentioned Grand Traverse Resort and Spa – a welcome slice of solitude that sits near the city’s edge. Sprawled over rolling hills, the resort is home to three championship golf courses, recently remodeled spa and Turtle Creek Casino. In a nutshell, once you’ve entered the property, there’s little reason to leave – and little reason to want to.
The Grand Traverse Tower, where we stayed, greets guests with a grand lobby, marble-floored and comfortably posh. A lobby bar entertains a small gathering of guests, and just a few hundred feet away savvy shoppers are checking our the Tower Shops, Grand Traverse’s selection of stores that offer everything from children’s toys and leisure wear to sweet delicacies that can be relished upon return to your room.
Dining options are also aplenty – visit the 16th floor of the Tower – overlooking manicured golf courses and offering striking views of the bay - and you'll find the resort's newest restaurant, aerie, which blends regional American cuisine with Northern Michigan flair by award-winning Executive Chef Ted Cizma, who was recognized as Food and Wine Magazine's "Best New Chef" in 2000.
We couldn’t resist drinks in the lounge, sipped slowly while we listened to the soothing croon of a Saturday evening live band.
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Grand Traverse Tower Room |
Back in the room, recently updated to reflect the resort’s major renovations, comforts delight. An entire wall is devoted to windows from which we could peek at Lake Michigan. Simple, yet pleasant, the atmosphere is calming, and the chocolates that rest on pillows at nighttime are welcome niceties that step back toward the glow of traditional service. It must be noted, however, that while Grand Traverse’s guest rooms are certainly adequate, the draw of the resort is in what it offers outside of the rooms – and to that end, opportunities are endless.
In fact, during our weekend stay there was simply not enough time to see or do all that Grand Traverse Resort and Traverse City had to offer. Instead, we were given a taste of the city in its late autumn glory, and left hungry envisioning it in summer’s sun.
To end our stay as painlessly as possible, we booked treatments at Grand Traverse Spa that would usher us back into the real world fresh and aglow. Glancing at the spa menu, it seemed only appropriate that we opt for the spa’s signature treatment line – infused wherever possible with all things cherry.
The delicious scent was intoxicating and during my one-hour Cherry Essence Massage within one of the spa’s private, candle-lit treatment rooms, it cleared my mind and restored my energy for the journey home.
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Late Fall View of Traverse Bay |
Reveling in the weekend’s delights as I laid on the massage table, my massage therapist quietly relayed her own favorite Traverse City spots, revealing the location of the area’s most beautiful beach, one, of course, that only the locals know about, and recommending the must-sees and dos of my next visit. Just like the warmth that the city embodies, she was kindly inviting.
Despite the blustery winds and biting cold, Traverse City warmed our hearts with its unique vigor and distinct beauty even in the bare-branch depths of late October, proving that heading north doesn’t always mean getting away from it all – sometimes it means getting to it all.
