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Vineyards
of South Africa
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Just
an hour outside of Cape Town are three small towns
that form the cradle of the winelands region: Paarl,
Stellenbosch and Franschoek. We drove to Franschoek,
which was settled by French Huguenots in 1688 and
still retains a heavy French influence, and found
that it was just the type of town we were looking
for: serene, beautiful and seemingly isolated from
everywhere else.
From
the top of the slate gray mountains that defined
the valley below, we watched the sun set on a
bucolic scene dotted with vineyards in a landscape
that felt more European than African.
With the region known for its wine, of course,
as well as good food, there are some superb accommodations
that offer luxurious lodging for reasonable rates.
We wisely chose to stay at Le Quartier Francais,
which had started initially as a restaurant and
has expanded to include 16 beautifully furnished
rooms surrounding a small courtyard and garden.
Naturally,
we dined in their restaurant which boasted awards
such as one of the "Top 100 Restaurants in
the World", and enjoyed some unusual and
mouth watering foods, including a never-seen-before
Beet Soufflé. When we returned to our room,
we found a fire had been lit in our fireplace,
and from our window, we could wake up and see
the clouds just starting to form around the mountain
peaks the next morning.
While
not a wine connoisseur at all, there seemed to
be something perfectly civilized about exploring
some of the surrounding vineyards the next day.
Looking at the old farm buildings or sitting outside
underneath a spreading tree, we sampled the wines
and slowly and contentedly took in both the tastes
and the surrounding sights.
While
I could have stayed a few extra nights alone just
to have the opportunity for more meals and more
decadence in Le Quartier Francais, our time was
limited and we drove into Cape Town and witnessed
one of the main contrasts in South Africa. Having
just experienced a peaceful, almost manicured
world, the highway into the city would take us
past vast sprawling townships stretching for miles
where thousands lived in nothing more than corrugated
iron shacks and most lack electricity and running
water.
There
is a tremendous gap between the wealthy, First
World South Africa and the impoverished Third
World South Africa, and despite South Africa's
amazing progress and advanced industry, there
is still a long way to go. Even without Apartheid,
divisions between races - black, white and colored
(a term used in South Africa to describe a person
of mixed race) - still seem to subtly exist. Without
Nelson Mandela to lead the country, a leader who
won virtually unanimous praise, tensions still
linger. The good news is that South Africa is
committed to moving ahead while still preserving
the memories of the past. (CONTINUED...)