Wrapped
in History
Merrickville's Baldachin Inn
by
Linda Aksomitis
I love history. I also love being pampered. So when I discovered the Baldachin
Inn in Merrickville, Ontario, I was in my element. Less than an hour's drive from
Ottawa, Canada's capital city, the Baldachin Inn combines old world charm and
elegance with the best of modern amenities.
After a hectic spring of delivering training seminars I was more than ready for
a retreat when I checked into the Baldachin, so I’d booked the Bridal Suite.
It more than met my expectations! I had not two rooms, but four — a bedroom
with a four-poster bed, a sitting room with cozy furniture, a huge Jacuzzi room
with a fireplace, plus a small bathroom.
The light beige colors of the bedroom décor contrasted nicely with the
dark wood to inspire a feeling of elegance. A throw rug, its rose pattern matching
the tapestry finish of the antique chair, covered the original hardwood floor
at the bedside. The plaster walls, at least twelve feet high, were still in wonderful
condition.
Beautiful stained glass insets framed the wide doorway between the sitting room
and bedroom. The same tapestry motif carried throughout the sitting room couch
and cushions, and another small rug over the hardwood. Small lamps provided all
the light required in the intimate atmosphere.
However, I
have to admit I was incredibly pleased to see the large Jacuzzi — certainly a
contrast to the first two historical rooms — that filled the corner of the third
room! I've
always found there's nothing more relaxing than settling into warm water and feeling
the gentle massage of spray over aching muscles. The
gas fireplace offered another relaxation option in the room. A large shower closet
tucked into the opposite wall provided me with an opportunity to get freshened
up for supper, while the ½ bath was well equipped with everything I might
have needed — or forgotten in my packing.
For
my first evening’s meal I wandered down to Harry McLean’s Pub in the
street level of the inn. With its 1860s European Pub styling, I immediately
felt at home among the guests and friendly staff. The menu was varied, but after
a day in airports and on planes, I decided on a light dinner salad covered with
shrimp, delicious.
My night was peaceful, so I felt renewed when I arose late the next morning. I
had several things on the day’s agenda: explore the historic community of
Merrickville and the Baldachin Inn. I took David and Bev Ellis, the Inn’s
owners, up on their offer to show me around.
The Baldachin has a long and varied history. Built in 1860, it was once the largest
department store between Chicago and Montreal. One of the key reasons is that
the building overlooks the historic Rideau Canal Waterway, which is a series of
beautiful lakes and rivers connected by canals for a total of 125 miles (202 km),
and was one of the region’s main modes of transportation from its building
in 1832. Today a Canadian National Historic Site and designated Canadian Heritage
River, the canals are a boater’s paradise and still popular.
Also a Heritage designated building, the Baldachin was owned by railway builder
and eccentric millionaire, Harry McLean, in the early 20th century. Like other
parts of the historic community, it fell into disrepair for a short period of
time before part of it was opened as a dining room in 1987. The Ellis’ purchased
it in the spring of 1988 and have restored the entire building over the ensuing
years.
Parts of the Baldachin were originally used as apartments, but all have been renovated
now to create a selection of a dozen rooms, some full suites and some double rooms,
plus several businesses. I visited the Knock Knock Shoppe, with its own street
entrance, to discover the 7,000 square feet of antique furniture and fine home
accessories. I also stepped into the dress shop to admire not only the racks of
beautiful clothing, but also the original embossed metal ceiling and wall coverings.
One
of the Baldachin’s treasures is its upper level, which features 15-foot
high stonewalls and hardwood floors. It uses a unique building style, the King’s
Post Truss system, only found in one other building, still used, in Chicago, which
eliminates the need for ceiling supports. This means the giant ballroom is completely
open, so brides and their grooms can swirl and twirl the night away. With seating
for 200, and an elegant French Country décor, it’s easy to see why
the Baldachin Ballroom is a first choice for weddings around the Ottawa area.
Visiting
with David, I discovered the Ballroom had once been the center of a much less
exciting activity — it had been a Millinery, where hats had been made for
the fashionable women of the 1800 and 1900s. The smaller room alongside it had
been the dressmaking shop, the size difference reflecting the buying trends of
the time. While women usually sewed their own clothing, they pampered themselves
with a new hat as the seasons changed.
Evening found me in the Baldachin Dining Room enjoying the superb European cuisine
prepared by the Inn’s chef. The chicken was delicious, while my companion’s
lamb looked just as delectable. Tiny new potatoes and perfectly prepared vegetables
made for a very heart-smart meal; so heart-smart I couldn’t resist the blueberry
and whipped cream covered cheesecake for dessert. Relaxation at its best…
As stars filled the evening sky and I curled up with a good book in my sitting
room, I imagined myself back a hundred and fifty years in time, listening not
to the sounds of cars passing on the street below, but the clip-clop of horses
and carriages, and the whistle of ships passing in the canal.
INFORMATION & RESERVATIONS:
Baldachin Inn
111 St. Lawrence Street
Merrickville, ON K0G 1N0
Telephone:
613-269-4223
Toll Free: 1-877-881-8874
Fax: 613-269-4227
E-mail: baldachi@istar.ca
If you visit the area:
Merrickville
Rideau Canal Waterway |
