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The Excelsior Hotel, NYC, French Country in the heart of old new york

New York's Excelsior Hotel Has Old World Charm

by Courtney Caldwell

New York never ceases to amaze me. Just when I think I've stayed at every kind of hotel that NY has to offer, along comes a landmark deeply nestled in a fashionable neighborhood that exudes old world charm, elegance, style, class, privacy and comfort. The Excelsior Hotel is not in the heart of Manhattan but rather in the heart of Old New York on 81st Street on the Upper West Side between Central Park and trendy Columbus Avenue. It's surrounded by a park-like atmosphere and overlooks the American Museum of Natural History and the New Rose Space Center. My visit was in January when branches were bare but it was easy to imagine this lovely neighborhood and nearby park alive and robust with colorful foliage, active joggers, and young mothers pushing baby carriages. It felt safe and serene.

It's hard to believe that among the hustle and bustle of noisy New York that such a place exists.

Excelsior Hotel New York City lobby
The Excelsior's lobby.

When one stays at as many hotels as I do throughout the year, many begin to blend together with fewer and fewer standing out. But when I walked into The Excelsior, the first thing out of my mouth was "Wow" and that was only the lobby. Drenched in French country motif, the contrast from the world outside gave an instant sense of time travel.

The neighborhood itself blew me away. Turn of the century charm, the 20th that is, abounds in this area of historic apartment buildings and brownstones, along tree-lined streets and lampposts that have lit 100 years of New York's history. The area bustles with an endless range of restaurants, outdoor sidewalk cafes (in season), and exclusive shops, most of which are within walking distance. The Excelsior offers a destination for those seeking quiet, culture, and more than just a tourist hotel.

Since it's situated on the Upper West Side, The Excelsior is not within walking distance of the financial district, Times Square, or Broadway. However, for those who enjoy the chaotic rhythm of New York City, there are several convenient modes of transportation right from the front door of The Excelsior, any of which will whisk you away into the wild and wonderful world of Manhattan within minutes.

If a walk on the wild side isn't your cup of tea, the heel-toe express over the cobblestone sidewalks will provide entry into some of New York's finest areas of culture and cuisine. Some of the nearby points of interest include Central Park, which is great for walking or jogging, the Guggenheim Museum, Jewish Museum, Lincoln Center, Beacon Theatre, Columbia University, Cathedral of St. John the Devine, Zabar's, Madison Avenue Couture Shopping, Metropolitan Museum of Art, and dozens of unique restaurants and cafes.

But enough about the world outside, let's enter the world inside. To call it a room would be an injustice. These are living quarters where any of the 200 guest rooms, including 80 suites, 40 junior suites or 40 executive suites, are more than just a room. The Excelsior is truly a boutique hotel in every sense of the word. It's clear management has a sincere interest in the wants and needs of weary travelers making every effort to make them feel at home. They accomplish their mission well. I did feel at home, and didn't want to leave. The Excelsior felt more like home than my own home.

Excelsior Hotel New York City suite
The sitting room of a suite at the Excelsior Hotel.

My particular suite was nestled in a corner on the 11th floor overlooking the Rose Space Center and Columbus Avenue. Upon entry, I again heard myself whisper, "Wow." The door opened into a comfortable living area that included a desk, fax machine, voice mail messaging, and a WEB TV station. And, although I didn't need it, the couch opened into a double sleeper, which would easily accommodate a traveling family. This living room doubles nicely for the business traveler - not only as a place where one could comfortably work, but could also meet or entertain clients without feeling like you've invited someone to a bedroom.

Speaking of bedrooms, I was awed by the French doors, which divided the rooms. It's not like I've never seen French doors before either. But there was something about the arrangement that made it all so comfortable and unique. They added a gentle elegance that made it feel more like a stay with friends or family instead of being at a hotel.

A second TV sat on the dresser, which housed a VCR. Other bedroom amenities included a pants press, bathrobes, bottled water, and a lounge chair with ottoman. But it didn't stop there. As I unpacked and began putting things away I found in the closet a safe, iron and board, and even an umbrella. The Excelsior also offers valet service, overnight shoeshine, and express checkouts. And while there is no room service, the front desk provides menus from nearby restaurants, most of which deliver within a half-hour. For simple snacks and soft drinks, there's a small gift shop on the lobby level.

Excelsior Hotel New York City room
The bedroom of a suite at the Excelsior Hotel.

I've stayed at many New York hotels. It's impossible to get away from the noise no matter what floor you're on, even at night when the noise dies down. At The Excelsior, though, the evening quiet was like true country living. There were no blaring taxi horns, flashing lights, or noisy delivery trucks making midnight runs. I can honestly say I've never stayed at a hotel this quiet in New York City. I slept like a baby. The only sound that permeated the morning silence was a sanitation truck, which served more as an alarm clock than an annoyance because even that was at a decent hour.

For business travelers, The Excelsior offers two meeting rooms ideal for small and medium sized executive conferences and events. Business services include fax, Internet connection, copies upon request, availability of A/V equipment, TV and VCR. I was particularly impressed with the smaller executive boardroom, which was surrounded by a library setting, basked in the light of beautiful crystal chandelier, and offered twelve comfortable high-backed leather seats around a large mahogany conference table. If impressing clients or colleagues is your goal, this is the room in which to do it.

The Excelsior also provides a lovely entertainment room, which features an extensive library and working fireplace. Off to the side through an anonymous doorway was a fitness room with a fair amount of equipment with surround sound state-of-the-art video/television all day. The entertainment room transforms into a breakfast room from 7 - 11 every morning offering a wide variety of breakfast choices or just a quick cup of coffee for those on the go. This room, which seats about 70, easily converts to an evening event room for companies interested in entertaining large groups, and even offers two side balconies for cocktails and hors d'oeuvres.

Excelsior Hotel New York City continental breakfast
Continental breakfast is serverd.

Hotel reviews are a big part of what I do as a travel editor. It's my job to visit, research, stay, and find all the good, bad and ugly about a hotel to let readers know what they're in for. The last thing I want to do is provide a perfect review and then have a reader stay at that hotel based on my findings only to be disappointed by things left out. In all honesty, The Excelsior far exceeded my expectations. I couldn't have asked for a more quiet or safe location, especially in New York City, which is of particular interest to women traveling alone. The staff was not only kind and courteous, but being such a small property they quickly learned my name further adding to my sense of security. The living quarters left nothing to be desired, it was all there. I wanted for nothing.

If I had one complaint it would have been the bathroom sink. Like many boutique hotels, furnishings are used that represent a certain period or motif. In keeping with their French country style, The Excelsior used pedestal sinks, which of course look pretty but offer limited shelf space for things like make-up or shaving gear. However, management learned quickly that this was problematic and resolved it by placing a glass shelf well above the toilet tank next to the sink and installed a portable valet below the sink which holds extra towels, the hair dryer, complimentary toiletries, and has enough top shelf space for additional items. It all works well, and together fits all your stuff, but can be a little tricky remembering where you put what.

To their credit, however, The Excelsior did one thing extremely well in the bathroom that most of their bigger counterparts usually miss; they provide excellent lighting. This is one of the biggest complaints we hear from travelers especially women who have to apply make-up; poor lighting. There's nothing worse than walking into daylight or an important business meeting looking like a clown. It's no way to command respect unless you're entertaining a bunch of four-year-olds. The Excelsior gets big kudos for lighting up our faces. Other than the sink issue the bathrooms, although small, are well equipped with everything one could want or need including showers with great water pressure.

This landmark hotel, built in the '20s, underwent complete renovations only five years ago. It features beautifully appointed queen, king, double, or one and two bedroom suites. Prices range, depending on season of course, from $149 to $199 per night. In my opinion these prices are outrageously good for New York City and for a hotel of this quality. In fact, I don't know how they do it, perhaps because it's one of the very few left that is privately owned by a family who cares about the physical and financial demands on the lives of today's travelers.

I don't hear the word "wow" slip off my tongue very much anymore when reviewing a new hotel but the Excelsior managed to get two. That, in my opinion, says it all about this fabulous hidden treasure.

The Excelsior Hotel is at 45 West 81st Street, New York, NY 10024. For reservations, call 800-368.4575 or check out their website at www.nyexcelsiorhotel.com.