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Utah : A Spiritual Experience in More Ways Than One

See the Breathtaking Natural Beauty of Utah

by Jeff Voth

Behind the gruff, muscled exterior, two large brown eyes held me transfixed in a momentary gaze. It was almost as if he looked right through me, sizing me up as a potential threat to his leisurely evening stroll. In contempt, he snorted and posed unceremoniously for my camera only a few hundred yards away. One false move on my part could quickly turn this docile beast into a two ton wrecking ball, laying waste to anyone foolish enough to stand in his way. Making the encounter even more extraordinary, was the setting in which we met. Seeing this magnificent creature on a sandy beach was surreal.

Shouldn't buffalo roam freely across the plain, grazing the wild grasslands at whim? How did he end up here with me on the beach? Maybe he was lost, or somehow estranged from the rest of the herd? But that theory didn't make any sense, there were other buffalo following in step behind.

Perhaps, I mused, he desired a more cosmopolitan way of life, hoping to get away from the trials of life on the plain and soak in the sun on the beaches of Great Salt Lake. Then again, the idea of buffalo reclining under canopied lounge chairs was more than a little disturbing.

As I wrestled with the image of a buffalo walking on the beach, he seemed to sense my uneasiness. Shaking his head in defiance, he and his followers continued on their merry way, perfectly content in the surroundings. It seems Antelope Island and the Great Salt Lake in Utah, offer the perfect setting for both man and beast to enjoy a relaxed evening stroll.

Utah is full of many such inspiring images. Until our arrival a few hours earlier, my impression was that it consisted only of snow covered mountains, arid plains and the ever present Mormon faithful. While all of this was in view during my five day visit, I was completely unprepared for the scenic beauty and majestic vistas scattered throughout the State.

Nan Anderson, our knowledgeable host for this trip, had planned a busy tour of Utah. Over the next five days we would cover much of the State by small tour bus, enjoying a whirlwind of activity and a perfectly choreographed itinerary.

Day two started in Salt Lake City, a city remembered most recently for hosting the 2002 Winter Olympic Games. From there we traveled north to the city of Ogden where we toured the newly renovated Perry's Egyptian Theatre, a historic building dating back to 1924. Having recently undergone a multi-million dollar restoration, it now seats 855 patrons, with 22 private boxes, and hosts many exciting events including regular silent picture showings. It is also one of several venues for the annual Sundance Film Festival.

Bear Lake, Utah

Leaving Ogden, we followed Hwy 39 through the Wasatch National Forest on our way north to Bear Lake. Upon our arrival, I was stunned to see the Caribbean color of the water, caught off guard that something so unique, so blue, resided in North America. Its sandy beaches are a favorite place for visitors to soak up the sun and it is easy to understand why.

Angling and water sports are enjoyed by many, though a recent drought has left the lake at near record lows. Here deer and elk routinely patrol the shores in search of food and water. Rumors of the Bear Lake monster made for an interesting discussion at lunch, as we enjoyed a local specialty, raspberry shakes.

Back on the road, we traveled southwest on Hwy 89 through Logan Canyon on our way to an evening of western fun at the American West Heritage Center.

Set on 160 acres of land, the center is a living museum of American history. Here the Wild West is brought to life for all to experience. Represented groups include Native Americans, pioneers, mountain men, military, farmers and ranchers. Our evening entertainment consisted of a wonderful Dutch-oven cookout, followed by a recital of several cowboy poems and the interactive story telling of a true mountain man. The only thing missing was the smell of a burning campfire and fresh buffalo meat cooking on a spit.

Day three took us out of Logan County and into Utah's Fruit Way. A quick stop at the Nielsen Fruit Farm garnered the welcome opportunity to sample some of Utah's finest peaches, watermelon and musk melon. Sweet tasting peach juice dribbled down my chin, as we enjoyed the fall harvest, and I made sure to stuff several whole peaches in my pocket for the long drive ahead.

Back in Salt Lake City, we made a brief appearance at the visitor's center and headed south on our way to the Nebo Loop National Scenic Byway.

If I had to choose only one road to drive in Utah, this would be it. The Nebo Loop is a series of switchbacks and inclines, winding its way up some of the most scenic countryside in the State. At its highest point, Mt. Nebo rises 11,877 ft. into the air, providing a magnificent vantage point from which to view Utah Lake and the surrounding area.

Our destination for the evening was Wind Walker Guest Ranch in Spring City, Utah. Loretta Johnson, the owner and head "dude" at the ranch delivers an authentic cowboy experience that is second to none. She treated us to an old-fashioned pioneer wagon ride, a genuine cowboy holdup, great western cooking and a guitar-pickin', harmonica playing, singalong around the campfire.

Wind Walker Guest Ranch, Utah

At Wind Walker Guest Ranch guests are treated like family. Meals are served in a group setting, with the main lodge housing long tables and benches reminiscent of summer camp. Portions are large and there is always an opportunity for seconds, or thirds, as was the case for several guests.

The accommodations at Wind Walker are as spacious as the surrounding countryside. Ceramic floors and a large sitting room welcome guests into their cottages. Each is equipped with a full kitchen and living room area, extra shower and two bedrooms. My room offered a whirlpool tub, which I took full advantage of after a long day riding the trail.

Day four dawned clear as we headed back to the shuttle bus and continued our journey south. Next stop was Capitol Reef National Park, one of the few areas in Utah to feature Petroglyphs, (ancient native wall pictures). We spent several leisurely hours traversing the pathways and dry riverbeds throughout.

The sight of tall red rock mountains carved into many wonderful shapes and the placement of these awe-inspiring silhouettes throughout the park, reminded me of a master potter putting on display his favorite pieces of art.

Our departure from the park took us down Scenic Byway 12, the All American Road. A quick stop at Anasazi State Park, offered a tour of the Indian site believed to have been occupied from A.D. 1050 to 1200. Here we were able to see first hand how the Anasazi people lived and thrived through the ages.

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Daylight waned into evening shadows as we found ourselves arriving in the land of hoodoos at Bryce Canyon National Park.

There is something enchanting that happens the moment you first set eyes on the Technicolor wizardry of this canyon. It's as if you are suddenly alive in the climatic battle scene between Gungans and Droids in Star Wars: Episode 1- The Phantom Menace. Rock formations protrude from the ground, millions of years of erosion arranging them row on row as sentinels standing at attention.

Rising early on day five, we headed back into the park to witness the breathtaking spectacle of sunrise at Bryce Canyon. If seeing the hoodoos in the evening light was extraordinary, I was completely unprepared for the beauty of sunlight meeting rock at the start of a new day. Dozens of visitors lined various vantage points, anticipating the moment with camera in hand. Though the cold morning air chilled us to the bone, it was well worth the wait.

Leaving Bryce Canyon behind, we turned our attention to spending as much of the last day in Zion National Park. The heart of this park is Zion Canyon, a 6-mile stretch of breathtaking scenery that left me feeling as if my head were mounted on a swivel. "Did you see that?" and "Quick, look over there!" are two of the most common phrases I heard while touring the canyon.

Zion National Park, Utah

Zion is home to 85% of all wildlife found in the state of Utah. On one particular path through the canyon, I experienced the remarkable sensation of one thousand year old water droplets caressing my outstretched hands. A favorite place for rock climbers and hikers, Zion continues to draw hordes of visitors each year.

It was with a certain sense of sadness that we finally left the park and headed south on the final portion of our trek into St. George. A bustling city founded in 1861 by Mormon settlers, St. George offers a big city cultural experience, ten challenging golf courses and an extensive list of Spa and Wellness facilities. Brittany McMichael, our host for the evening, treated us to dinner at the Prancing Pony and later to an outdoor production of "Singin' in the Rain" at the beautiful Tuacahn Center for the Arts.

It was later that evening as we sat around discussing the highlights of our week in Utah, that I realized just how far we had traveled. Over the course of five days, our small team of journalists and tour guides had traversed a total of 1,100 miles. In that time we had been fortunate to see much of the splendor that Utah has to offer.

Of course one trip alone does not do it justice. As I discovered, Utah is much more than just snow covered mountains, arid plains and a profound religious heritage. There are a total of five national parks and over forty state parks that make up this diverse region, and someday I hope to visit each one.

IF YOU GO...

Where to Play:

Capitol Reef National Park
HC 70 Box 15
Torrey, UT 84775-9602
(435) 425-3791

Bryce Canyon National Park
PO Box 170001
Bryce Canyon, UT 84717-0001
(435) 834-5322

Zion National Park
SR 9
Springdale, UT 84767-1099
(435) 772-3256

Where to Stay:

Hilton Garden Inn Layton
762 West Heritage Park Blvd.
Layton, Utah 84041
(801) 416-8899

Crystal Inn
853 South Main Street
Logan, Utah 84321
(435) 752-0707

Wind Walker Guest Ranch
11550 Pigeon Hollow Rd.
Spring City, Utah 84662
(888) 606-9463

Best Western Ruby's Inn
1000 South Hwy 63
Bryce, Utah 84764
(866) 866-6616

St. George Holiday Inn
850 South Bluff Street
St. George, UT 84770
(800) 457-980