By Benjamin S. Lyons

No matter how many National Geographic specials you've seen or how many stories you've heard, nothing prepares you for a visit to the Galapagos Islands. Whether swimming only inches away from sea lions or sidestepping hundreds of marine iguanas stretched out in the sun, these unique islands are best visited with a well-established expedition company that can offer insight and access. Amongst the many options sailing the Galapagos, there are none better than Lindblad Expeditions and the 80-passenger ms Polaris.

Founded by Sven Olof Lindblad, the son of Lars-Eric Lindblad who pioneered expedition-style cruising, Lindblad Expeditions employs thebest naturalists and provides them the best tools to create the most organized and educational cruise possible. Sailing everywhere from Antarctica to the Columbia River, Lindblad is deeply committed to environmental conservation and ecologically sensitive tourism and has formed strong partnerships with National Geographic and the World Wildlife Fund. Over the years they have built a large base of loyal passengers who, like the infinitely curious Charles Darwin who made these islands famous, want to see, do and learn as much as possible.

This mentality was evident from our first day, which had us embarking the Polaris by 10AM and going ashore for our first expedition only a few hours later. Striking off in a Zodiac, we explored a series of quiet lagoons where mangroves and cactus live side by side and we were delighted with shockingly close sightings of land iguanas, sea lions, herons, sharks and large sea turtles. Our naturalist, however, urged us not to take photographs since we would see more and get closer throughout the week.

He was proven right the next morning when we went ashore on Espanola. Covering our landing were numerous sea lions lethargically draped across our path, and as we stepped around them they looked at us with only a casual indifference. Just a few feet beyond, we were again blocked by a jumble of prehistoric-looking marine iguanas. It was immediately obvious that we were the ones who had to make way for the animals, as they were not going to move for us.

Visiting nine islands in seven days, we saw a wide variety of landscapes and animals and against my expectations; I found the birds to be some of the most appealing creatures. Being able to walk up to and observe hundreds of them from close range made bird watching far more interesting than in other areas where it usually involves searching for one elusive feather hidden behind branches 200 feet away. (CONTINUE...)